SHEILA'S TRAVEL

• THE SULTANATE OF OMAN

Land of wadis and Walis This little known country situated on the eastern corner of the Arabian peninsula is only just beginning to attract western visitors. The fertile coastal plain with date palms and citrus groves contrasting with the bare basalt mountains. With medieval forts and modern hotels Oman has much to recommend it to the adventurous tourist.



Wadi bashing.
An experience not to be missed. A wadi is a dry river bed and wadi bashing involves driving along a wadi, sometimes between boulders as big as houses that have been tossed there by the force of some enormous flash flood. Be prepared for a very bumpy ride.
I was lucky enough to be travelling with the Oman Historical Association and we visited the town of Quriyat. We were fortunate to have the Wali (head man) as our guide and invited into his house for refreshment. We removed our shoes before entering and sat on cushions on the floor, our bare feet tucked beneath us as it is insulting to show the soles of your feet. The Wali and his sons handed round dishes of fruit and halva, a sticky substance made by boiling up fruit, dates and honey and eaten by dipping in your fingers. The fingers of your right hand - you must never touch food with your left hand.

Medieval Forts.
You cannot visit Oman without finding out about its fascinating history. The rough terrain has always presented a problem to would-be invaders but the prosperous coastal trading areas were more vulnerable. In the seventeenth century the Portuguese occupied many of the coastal towns. The British, with the East India Company's trading routes in mind, helped to evict them. The splendid medieval forts have all played a part in shaping the destiny of Oman, whether protecting a seaport from an overseas invader or as a base for a raid against a rival tribe. Many have now been restored and house museums.

Muscat.
In the old walled city of Muscat, ancient buildings jostle in harmony with modern banks and offices. Until 1970 there was no electricity, roads, hospitals or schools and the gates of this city were closed at sunset. A social and economic turn-round followed the succession of Sultan Qaboos who began to use the new oil revenue for the benefit of his people.

You can visit the Souks (markets). The silver souk is most fascinating where jewellery is sold by weight. Local women like to wear bright colours and a lot of silver jewellery. The people of Oman are a mixture of Bedouin, the nomadic tribesmen from the interior, and immigrants from the Indian and African continents. As Muslims, the women must cover their heads, but in Oman they are not obliged to veil their faces.

You can swim in the warm, clear turquoise water of the Arabian Sea and discover the magic of snorkelling. Marvel at the beautiful corals on the sea bed and the pretty, technicolour fish, silently gliding round you. But beware - the sand on the beach is so hot it can burn your feet, and take care not to tread on underwater coral - ouch!

You can travel to Oman with British Airways or Gulf Air.
Flying time is 6.5 hours and the time difference is +4 hours GMT.
Or you can travel with one of the tour companies such as Key2Holidays